Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Passover in the Holy Land: Pilgrimage to Jerusalem 100 years ago and a Yemenite Seder 75 years ago - picture a day


  1. "Jerusalem from the Mt. of Olives, showing the throngs
    in the city at Passover time (1911)"
    Passover is one of the three pilgrimage festivals mentioned in the Bible along with Sukkot and Shavuot.  Historians and rabbinic literature refer to hundreds of thousands of pilgrims who filled the streets and alleyways of Jerusalem, bringing sacrifices to the Temple. 

    Today as well, Jews from all over the world and from all over Israel make their pilgrimages to the holy city.
    
    Cover of the "Temple Haggadah"
    Painting by the Temple Institute in
    Jerusalem. Note the Paschal Lamb
    on the low table.



    Yemenite Seder, eating the bitter herbs  (1939)









    
    Drinking wine in the Kiddush ceremony. Note the table is covered
    at that point, and all men are leaning to their left as prescribed.
     

    The Library of Congress photographic collection includes the 100-year-old picture of the "throngs" visiting Jerusalem.  The collection also contains a series of photographs of Yemenite residents of Jerusalem celebrating their Passover seder in 1939.  Note their low table and compare it to the painting of a Seder during the time of the Temple, taken from the Passover Seder Haggadah of theTemple Institute in Jerusalem.

    Washing hands during the Seder




    Click on the photos to enlarge. 
    Click on the captions to see the originals. 

    Passover meal.  Note the square matza



    The Yemenite community has a tradition of a soft matza, similar to Middle East pita or laffa bread, which they bake daily during Passover.  

    Discussing the local matza, an ancient traveler to Tza'ana in Yemen quoted his Yemenite host, "There is no requirement that the matzos be dry and stale because they were baked many days before Pesach.  Every day we eat warm, fresh matza. "
    The traveler reported, "I enjoyed their special kind of matza -- it was warm, soft and didn't have the usual burnt sections which was present in every matza I had ever eaten until then."

    Unfortunately for the 1939 Yemenite family, it appears that the only matza available to them was the square and stale machine-made matza.
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  2. Herod's Gate (circa 1898)
    Herod's Gate is located at the northeast corner of Jerusalem's Old City between Damascus Gate and Lion's Gate, adjoining the Muslim Quarter.  It is also called the Flower Gate because of intricate stone designs above the gate, and the Sheep's Gate because of the animal market held outside of the gate. 

    The sheep market outside of Herod's Gate (circa 1900)
    The name "Herod's Gate" was based on the belief that King Herod's palace was located near the site.  In fact, the gate was a modest entrance until the 1870s when the Turks built the more impressive gate to give access to neighborhoods north of the Old City.

    sacrifice ceremony outside of Herod's Gate (circa 1898)
    The Old City of Jerusalem is surrounded by four kilometers (2.5 miles) of walls built by the Ottoman Sultan, Suleiman the Magnificent, in 1540.  Seven gates serve as points of entry into the Old City. The eighth gate, the Golden Gate located at the entrance to the Temple Mount, has been sealed for centuries.  

    During the Arab Revolt (1936-1939) the Old City of Jerusalem was subject to British police curfews and even the sealing of the gates.
    British police with dogs at Herod's
    Gate (1937)
    Sealed gate (1938)
    The Israeli Defense Forces captured the Old City in June 1967 and opened the Herod's Gate for pedestrians.
    See previous photo essays on the Zion GateDamascus Gate,Golden GateDung GateJaffa Gate, the New Gate and Lions Gate.


    Herod's Gate today
    (Wikipedia)



    Click on the photos to enlarge.

    Click on the captions to see the originals.
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  3. 
    The American Colony's "Book Club" (1898). Almost certainly
    not Purim-related, but great costumes!
    Purim provides the Jewish comics' classic example of a Jewish Holiday: 

    "They tried to kill us. We survived.  Let's eat!"

    The Jews of Palestine used to celebrate heartily at the PurimAdloyada ["until they don't know"] festival and parade held in Tel Aviv in the 1920s and 30's.  Some commentators make a crude comparison to Marde Gras partying, but the merriment is based on an ancient rabbinic tradition of Jews imbibing on Purim to the point where they do not know the difference between sobriety and drunkenness, between Mordechai and Haman -- but without losing their wits.

    Purim celebration in Tel Aviv (1934)
    Purim carnival in Tel Aviv (1934)
    The Purim tale did not take place in Eretz Yisrael, but in Persia.  A villain named Haman arose and tried to destroy the Jewish people.  Through guile and disguise, Mordechai and Esther were able to thwart Haman's genocidal plans and save the Jewish people.  To this day there is a custom to dress up in disguises.
    The "Queen Esther" of the carnival in 1934

    Jerusalem Drama Society in costume
    (not believed to be
     related to Purim) 1940
    Click on the photos to enlarge. 

    Click on the captions to see the originals. 





    The parallels between Haman's threat and the threats against Israel from Persia/Iran today are stark and worrisome.  
    
    Purim parade in Tel Aviv with a float
    of a dangerous 3-headed
    Nazi dragon (1934)

    
    Tel Aviv Purim float of Nazi cannons
    (screen capture from 1933 film)
    But the threats to the Jewish people were also apparent to the photographers of the American Colony who photographed Purim celebrations in Tel Aviv in the early 1930s. They photographed parade floats showing the Nazi threats.

    Another movie photographer filmed a float in 1933 showing dangerous Nazi cannons.  A screen capture from the film is presented here. 

    View Yaakov Gross' film of the Tel Aviv celebrations in the 1930s here:  Visit his wonderful collection of films here.


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  4. Albert Kahn, 1914
     (Albert Kahn Museum)
    While the American Colony photographers were assembling their collection of pictures of the Holy Land, a French banker named Albert Kahn was commissioning photographers to travel the world (1909 - 1931) to create his "Archives of the Planet."  They photographed 72,000 colored pictures and 600,000 feet of film in 50 countries around the world -- including the British Mandate of Palestine.

    From the Kahn collection
    Some of the Kahn collection's still pictures taken in Jerusalem are similar to those in the American Colony collection in the Library of Congress reproduced here inhttp://www.israeldailypicture.com/.

    But unsurpassed are the movies taken by Kahn's Jerusalem photographer Camille Sauvageot in 1925.  The film below shows the Old City's gates, Jewish prayer at the Western Wall, Christian processions on Good Friday, and Muslims on the Temple Mount.

    The film below was posted to YouTube this week by Israeli film collector and archivist Yaakov Gross.   Visit his wonderful collection of films here.

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  5. "Thou shall not muzzle an ox in its threshing"
    לֹא תַחְסֹם שׁוֹר בְּדִישׁוֹ 
    Deuteronomy 25 (circa 1900)
    The American Colony photographers were religious Christians and probably  knew the Bible from beginning to end. 

    Some of their pictures reflected religious themes, such as women working in the field in the tradition of Ruth, or young shepherds near Bethlehem. 

    "Thou shall not plow with
    an ox and an ass together."
    לא תַחֲרֹשׁ בְּשׁוֹר וּבַחֲמֹר יַחְדָּו
    Deuteronomy 20 (circa 1890)

    Plowing with a cow and a camel (circa 1900)
    They also focused on one area of Biblical prohibitions -- the care of farm animals.  Many pictures portray mismatched animals pulling a plow, and one picture shows a muzzled cow threshing wheat.
    Plowing with a cow and and an ass
     (circa 1900) See also here

    Click on the photos to enlarge. 

    Click on the captions to see the originals. 


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  6. Captioned "Turkish procession," dated between 1898 and 1918. Click on the
    picture or the link to enlarge the picture
    The Library of Congress caption says this is a picture of a "Turkish procession," taken sometime between 1898 and 1918. 

    But that's not the case. This is a procession of Jews of Eretz Yisrael. We'd like your help figuring out where it was taken, why people were marching, and when.
    Enigmatic picture of children marching

    We were challenged with a similar "procession" of adults and children several months ago with this picture (right).  The caption read “Group of children and adults in procession in street, some holding a banner with a Star of David.”

    In our photo essay then we suggested that the children were returning from the ancient grave of Simon the Tzaddik in Jerusalem, walking south on Nablus Road toward the Old City.  It was early afternoon, and the day was Lag B'Omer, April 30, 1918, suggested by the presence of British army tents on the horizon. [We actually visited and photographed the site where the children marched.]

    Turning to the new picture, why do we reject the caption of a "Turkish procession?"  Because of the many identifiable Jews throughout the crowd.

    Enlargement of Sephardi man,
    apprently wearing a prayer shawl,
    and bearded Jews in the background.
    More Jewish men with beards and hats
    What else do we know from the picture?

    There is a sign post in the middle of the picture, but it cannot be read even after enlargement.  Behind the sign post, on the other side of the road, is another sign.  Two men are apparently writing on it and have drawn the attention of marchers around them.

    Signpost and men writing
    on a sign
    British soldier
    The day is neither Sabbath nor a Jewish holiday when observant Jews are forbidden to ride on the horses or in carriages which appear in the photo.  Not is it likely to be Chol Hamoed(the intermediate days of Sukkot or Passover) since Chassidic Jews would be wearing their shtreimels (round fur hats). 

    Not only is the picture not of a "Turkish procession," it is likely that the picture is taken after the Turkish defeat in Palestine in1917-1918.  In the middle of the picture appears to be a British soldier in uniform and flat-top army hat.

    Can it be that this is another picture of Jews marching on Lag B'Omer, the same day in 1918 as the children's "enigmatic" picture above, a Spring day between Passover and Shavuot when Jews traditionally take hikes into the countryside and visit the graves of sages?  Is it this semi-holiday when traditional Jews can ride and walk beyond the city limits?  But where are the marchers going to or coming back from?  Their shadows suggest that they're not walking at the same time of day and direction as the children's procession.

    Readers are encouraged to add their opinions and attempt to decipher the words on the signpost.
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  7. The New Gate (circa 1900), still unpaved
    The Old City of Jerusalem is surrounded by four kilometers (2.5 miles) of walls built by the Ottoman Sultan, Suleiman the Magnificent, in 1540.  Seven gates serve as points of entry into the Old City, but the New Gate is just that -- relatively new.   Unlike the other ancient gates, the New Gate was opened in 1889 by the Ottomans, giving direct access to the Christian Quarter of the Old City.

    Benefiting the most were the Christian residents of the nearby Russian Compound and the French Notre Dame hospice across the street.  The New Gate is located between the Jaffa Gate and the Damascus Gate.
    "Arab demonstration at the New Gate. Police
    cordon stopping the procession, Oct. 13, 1933"
    View the Jaffa Gate clash here
    In 1933 Arab riots broke out in Jerusalem and clashes with British police erupted at the New Gate and the Jaffa Gate of the Old City.
    
    The riot at Jaffa Gate.  "Demonstrators
     facing police baton charge"


    What triggered the 1933 riots? 

    According to the British Mandate Annual Report for 1933, 
    Arab discontent on account of Jewish immigration and the sale of lands to Jews, which has been a permanent feature of political opinion in Palestine for the past ten years, began to show signs of renewed activity from the beginning of 1933, developing in intensity until it reached a climax in the riots of October and November. [Editor's note: 15 years before Israel's creation.] ... This [immigration] increase found its origin mainly in the favourable economic conditions of the country, due to a large extent to influx of Jewish capital and to consequent creation of new openings for employment.

    The British report also provided the casualty count as a result of the terrorists:

    [T]he collision of Arab demonstrators with the Police resulted in five constables and eleven civilians being slightly injured. The total casualties in the subsequent rioting in Jaffa, Jerusalem, Haifa and Nablus were one constable and twenty-four civilians killed or died of wounds, twenty-eight constables and two hundred and four civilians wounded.
    Iron gates restricted passage
    through the New Gate in 1937

    In 1938 the British sealed the
    New Gate
    During the Arab Revolt (1936-1939) British authorities were quick to close the New Gate to prevent free movement of rioters and marauding gangs.

    In 1948, Jewish fighters failed to break through the gates of the Old City to relieve the fighters in the Jewish Quarter and to conquer the Old City.

    The Israeli Defense Forces captured the Old City in June 1967 and opened the New Gate for traffic and pedestrians.

    
    The New Gate today. (photo
    by Daniel Baranekpublished
    with permission)
    See previous photo essays on the Zion Gate,Damascus GateGolden GateDung Gate, Jaffa Gate and Lions Gate.

     The next gate: Herod's Gate.

    Click on the photos to enlarge.
    Click on the captions to see the originals.

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  8. Ancient noria (water wheel) in Hama on the
    Orontes River
    The American Colony photographers were based in Jerusalem for the 60 years of their photographic enterprise.  But they traveled throughout the Middle East, and their photographs of Egypt, Iraq, Lebanon and Syria are also located in the Library of Congress today. 
    Hama, note the camel
    caravan at the bottom of
    the picture
    Homs, circa 1900
    We present today several photographs taken 100 years ago in Homs, Syria's third largest city, and in Hama, Syria's fourth largest.
    

    Homs, Khalid ibn Al-Walid Mosque

    Hama was the site of the infamous Hama massacre in 1982 where an estimated 34,000 Syrians were killed by forces commanded by President Hafez Assad and his brother Rifaat -- the brother and uncle of today's leader of Syria, Bashar Assad.

    Today, the cities of Homs and Hama are bearing the brunt of the vicious repression taking place in Syria.
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  9. 
    Funeral procession to Mt of Olives (circa 1900).  See another
    view of the procession here
    An estimated 150,000 Jews have been buried on the Mount of Olives over the last 3,000 years, opposite the Golden Gate of the city and the Temple Mount. 

    The ancient cemetery was favored by the devout as their burial site because of its proximity to the holy site in anticipation of the eschatological resurrection of the dead.
    
    Mt of Olives funeral with view of the Old City wall  (circa 1900)

    The American Colony collection contains many pictures of the Kidron Valley between the Temple Mount and the Mount of Olives, particularly around the picturesque shrine called "Absalom's Pillar."  And the photographers captured pictures of mourners from various vantage points. 

    Note the large number of intact ancient tombs.
    "Jewish tombs on the Kidron slopes"
    note the tip of Absalom's tomb in the
    center (circa 1900) and this picture
    from the 1940s









    
    "Valleys of Jehoshaphat and Hinnom. Jewish
    cemetery on slopes of Mt of Olives" (circa
    1900) and another view



    Until 1917, Palestine was ruled by the Ottoman Turks; from 1917 until 1948 it was under British control.  The Turks often discriminated against the Jews (one governor ordered the burial of dogs in a Jewish cemetery in Jerusalem-- "with the other dogs") and expelled thousands of Jews from Jaffa.  The "Tyrant" Hassan Bek used Jewish gravestones to build a mosque between Jaffa and the new Tel Aviv, shown in photos from 1917.

    When Jordanian troops captured eastern Jerusalem in 1948, they followed Hassan Bek's example and used the Jewish gravestones for their construction needs.
    Desecration of the Jewish cemetery on Mt of Olives photographed
    in 1967 (Israel National Photo Collection, Ilan Bruner)

    Staircase in Jordanian army
    camp in east Jerusalem built
    from gravestones (Israel
    National Photos, Moshe
    Milner, 1967)

    After the recapture of eastern Jerusalem in 1967, Jews were shocked at the widespread descration of the ancient cemetery. Some38,000 stones and graves were smashed. 

    Since then great efforts were made to restore the graves and tombstones. 

    Graves on the Mt of Olives recently vandalized
    Today, Jews are once again burying their dead in the Mount of Olives cemetery, but they are shocked to find gravestones being vandalized and destroyed once again by Arabs who live nearby.  Visitors to the cemetery have also found themselves under a hail of stones. 

    Here is a video clip of the desecration actually taking place.

    Click on the photos to enlarge. 
    Click on the captions to see the originals.
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  10. "Orthodox Jews on their usual walk to the Wailing Wall"
    (circa 1935) 



    Here are two photographs of the forthcoming feature on worshippers on their way to the Western Wall on a Sabbath 80 years ago.




    
    Orthodox Jews on the way to the Western Wall who object
    to their photos being taken on the Sabbath (circa 1935)

    In 1948, the Jordanian Legion captured the Old City, imprisoned or expelled all of the Jews, and destroyed the Jewish Quarter.  Jews were not permitted to visit the Western Wall until 1967 when the Israel Defense Forces reunited the city.




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  11. Leveling the dunes of Tel Aviv (circa 1920)
    Jews moved north from Jaffa 100 years ago, leveled the sand dunes, and established the city of Tel Aviv. 

    Few suspected that they were also laying the foundation for a Jewish version of the Riviera, but within two decades, the beaches were a very popular destination, as the American Colony photographers recorded.
    Aerial view of Tel Aviv casino and beach (1932)
    Tel Aviv beach (circa 1935)







    Close-up of Tel Aviv bathers (circa 1935)



    Tel Aviv beach (1935)












    Click on the photos to enlarge. 
    Click on the captions to see the originals.
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  12. Tens of thousands attended Bialik's funeral in Tel Aviv,
    outside of the synagogue, July 16, 1934
    The poems of Chaim Nachman Bialik (1873-1934) are still memorized in Israel.  His poem In the City of Slaughter about the 1903 Kishinev pogrom was as much an indictment of Jewish passivity as it was a condemnation of the perpetrators of the massacre.  The poem stirred Jewish and Zionist activists to establish self-defense groups such as the Haganah. 
    
    Bialik's funeral. Note the synagogue
    where the procession began
    in the far distance
    
    Streets and schools are named for Bialik throughout Israel.  His reputation as one of the great modern Hebrew writers and scholars is unchallenged and earned him the title of "Israel's national poet."  He was truly a wordsmith, taking ancient Hebrew words and devising new constructs to produce new Hebrew words for modern objects such as jetplane, import, export, camera, etc.  

     Eliezer Ben-Yehuda is called the "father of modern Hebrew."  Bialik was at least its uncle, a man who lovingly played with the language and produced poems, books, word games and even children's rhymes.


    But today many are surprised to learn that most of Bialik's life was spent in Europe.  He was born in the Ukraine, attended the famous Volozhin yeshiva in Lithuania, and worked and taught in Warsaw, Berlin and Odessa before moving to Israel in 1924.  Bialik's Hebrew scholarship and writing were already appreciated throughout Jewish Palestine, and in 1927 he was chosen as the head of the Hebrew Writers Union.

    Bialik died in Austria in 1934 during a medical procedure.  His funeral took place in Tel Aviv, and among the masses of mourners were the Christian photographers of the American Colony.
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  13. The children of Geva (circa 1930)
    Kibbutz Geva and Kibbutz Ein Harod were established in the early 1920s in the Gilboa region of the Jezreel Valley on land purchased by the Jewish National Fund.
    Ein Harod's communal dining room








    
    Ein Harod cattle


    
    Ein Harod housing
    Geva coops

    Plowing in the Jezreel Valley
    Founded by Polish and Russian Jews from the Second and Third Aliya movements in the early 20th century, the kibbutzim are thriving communities today.  (Ein Harod split into two separate kibbutzim in 1952.)
    
    Ein Harod children (circa 1930)
    During the Arab Revolt (1936-1939), Ein Harod served as the base for the British officer Orde Wingate and his commando forces, the "Special Night Squads."

    Israel's president Shimon Peres was a resident of Geva for several years as a young man.

    Geva's singing troupe, the Gevatron, was founded in 1948 and remains one of Israel's favorite folk music groups.
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  14. "Snowballing on Jaffa Road" in Jerusalem (1942)
    Israelis love to see snow. 

    The ski slopes on Mt. Hermon in the Golan Heights are clogged today with Israeli skiers after several heavy snowfalls in recent weeks. 

    The children from the American
    Colony, 1921 (the picture was
    hand-colored)



    Snow covers Jerusalem's Old City, looking toward
    Mt. of Olives (circa 1900)








    Elsewhere in Israel rains have fallen steadily over the last month, and the Sea of Galilee is slowly rising.  But the "national resevoir of Israel" has a long way to go after years of drought in the Middle East.

    
    British soldiers at the
    Western Wall (1921)

    Children pulling sled in Jerusalem
    (1921)
    Snow in the hills of Jerusalem occurs once every year or two. Roads from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem are clogged when there are predictions of snow in the capital.  Residents of Israel's warmer coastline have even been seen in Jerusalem loading snow into the trunks of their cars after a snow storm to take back "down the hill."


    Children playing in the snow
    (1921)

    snowman in Jerusalem, probably surrounded by
    members of the American Colony (1921)















    The photographers of the American Colony recorded pictures of some of the snow storms, particularly the heavy accumulation during the winter of 1921. 
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